How to Avoid Over-Processed Brows & Lashes

A professional brow lamination or lash lift should culminate in professional-looking results, right? Unfortunately, sometimes things don’t go as planned, and we all make mistakes from time to time. However, it’s imperative to learn from those mistakes if you want to avoid future mishaps and enjoy a long, successful career in the beauty industry.

When it comes to performing brow laminations and lash lifts, one of the most common negative outcomes is over-processing. This will result in excessively curly or even frizzy brow hairs or lashes — decidedly not the look your client was going for.

So, how can you avoid over-processing? And what should you do if it occurs? Read on for the answers to these questions and other tips.

What Is Over-Processing?

Over-processing occurs when you leave a solution on your client’s eyebrows or eyelashes too long. Essentially, you allowed the solution to process for longer than you should have, resulting in unwanted curling, frizzing or another undesirable effect. Sometimes the side effects of over-processing don’t show up right away but instead take up to 24 hours to reveal themselves. 

How to Avoid Over-Processing Brows and Lashes

Here are some of the best practices you should follow to avoid over-processing your clients’ hair.

Pay attention.

The best way to avoid sending a client home with over-processed brows or lashes is to pay very close attention to your processing times. Use a timer so you won’t lose track of how much time has passed, and be conservative when trying to decide how many minutes you’ll allow the solution to work.

Consider your client’s hair type. 

Different types of hair will process differently, so take a few minutes to inspect your client’s hair type. For example, the finer your client’s hair, the less time will be required for the solution to do its magic. Until you’re certain how a specific client’s hair will react, it’s wise to use a time range on the low side. Over time, especially with repeat clients, you will gain a better sense of the proper timing.

Know your products. 

Develop a high level of familiarity with the tools and products you plan to use. Different solutions may require different setting times, so if you change products or have to make substitutions, do so with great care.

Discard the saran wrap. 

Although many beauty technicians first learn to include this material in their standard kit, it’s way more likely to lead to over-processing than using bonder. So, in short: Ditch the saran wrap.

Follow the instructions. 

Every professional-grade product should come with usage instructions, which you should always take seriously. You owe it to your clients to use these formulas responsibly.

Practice. 

You wouldn’t market yourself as a hairdresser if you’ve never cut or styled hair before, would you? It’s the same with offering lash and brow services. If possible, try practicing new treatments on your colleagues first or others in the industry before offering them to potential clients. Over time, the steps will become second nature to you.

How to Fix Over-Processed Brows or Lashes

You might be able to reverse a lash lift if your client is unhappy with their results, but unfortunately, it’s usually not possible to reverse the effects of over-processing. That said, you can mitigate the effects if you act fast. 

If you over-processed a client, the best thing to do is to immediately apply castor oil or another gentle lash or brow conditioner to the area. For this reason, it’s a good idea to always keep castor oil or another hair conditioner in your beauty kit just in case.

If you notice the signs of over-processing before your client has left your care, you can apply the castor oil or conditioner for them. Alternatively, if the client reports signs of over-processing after they’ve left their appointment, encourage them to use the same approach right away.

This situation will require more than a one-time application, unfortunately. Your client will need to reapply the castor oil or conditioner for several consecutive days. If they’re diligent about this, they will start to see the hairs improving with time.

Over-processing results can be disappointing for everyone, and it’s true that it can reflect poorly on you. But try not to beat yourself up over your mistakes. Instead, commit to learning from your error and try to do better next time.

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