cleansing, and why oil ruins a tint

Oil, makeup and dead skin sit between the color and the hair. A brow that looks clean can still carry moisturizer or brow gel from the morning, and the tint takes unevenly where that film remains.

• Remove all makeup from the brow and the surrounding skin with an oil-free cleanser.
• Dry the area completely before you go further.
• Brush the hairs into place so you can see the natural shape and any sparse areas.

BB&L describes its Tint Remover as suited to preparing the lashes and brows before tinting, as well as lifting stains afterward.

protecting the skin around the brow

Classic tint colors the skin it touches for 3 to 5 days. Keep the color on the hairs you mean to tint.

• Map the shape first with a white brow mapping pen, so the outline is decided before any color goes on.
• Keep the brush tip on the hair and stay inside the mapped outline.
• Have tint remover and clean pads within reach to lift any stray color right away.

mixing the tint

BB&L Lash & Brow Tint is mixed with 3% / 10 volume cream developer, which activates the color. Mix 3 parts tint to 1 part developer, and only what you need for one client.

• Use a glass mixing cup: a smooth, non-absorbent surface keeps the mix consistent.
• Mix just before you apply: the color activates once it meets the developer.
• Keep each line with its own developer: classic tint and hybrid stains each have their own.

The full detail on developers and ratios is in tint developer and mixing ratios.

application: order of work

Work the same way on every client, so the result is repeatable.

• Load the brush lightly: a small amount of tint gives you control at the edges.
• Coat each hair from root to tip along the direction of growth.
• Start where the brow is fullest and finish at the front, where a softer result looks more natural.
• Work one brow, then the other, and note the time you finished each one.

timing and the visual check

Process for 5 to 7 minutes, depending on the depth you want, or 1 to 3 minutes after a lamination. Then check one small section before you remove the rest: if the color has not reached the depth you agreed, reapply on that section and let it sit a little longer.

Hair that has been laminated, lightened or sun-exposed takes color faster. Watch it closely, and write the timing you used on the client card.

removal without lifting the color

• Remove the tint from the hairs with a damp pad, moving in the direction of growth.
• Clean the skin around the brow with tint remover where color has transferred.
• Brush the hairs back into shape and check both brows side by side.

Removing color from the skin without fading the hair is covered in removing brow tint from the skin.

finishing and the aftercare briefing

• Avoid steam, sunbeds and saunas for the first 24 to 48 hours.
• Use an oil-free cleanser around the brows.
• Expect the skin color to fade first, within days, while the hair holds its color for 3 to 6 weeks.
• Rebook when the color fades, and record the formula for next time.

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method questions from the chair