choosing the right brow tint color
Choose the brow tint color from the client's natural brow hair at the root, adjust it to her skin undertone, and go one shade lighter when you hesitate. Blonde clients start from Light Blonde, Ash Blonde or Natural Brown, redheads from Reddish Brown, Light Chestnut Brown or Mid-Brown, and dark brows from Dark Brown or Black.
read the client before the chart
The color chart comes second. The first read is the client in front of you: the natural color of her brow hair at the root, the color of her scalp hair, her skin tone, and what she wants the brow to do. A client who wants softer, fuller-looking brows needs a different pick from a client who wants a sharp, defined arch.
Look at the brow in daylight or under neutral studio light. Warm ceiling bulbs push every brow toward red and lead to shades that read too warm once the client steps outside.
skin tone and undertone
Skin tone tells you how much contrast the face can carry. Undertone tells you whether the brow should lean warm, cool or neutral. The two together decide the shade family before you pick a single tube.
Ash and neutral browns
Pink or blue cast to the skin, silver jewelry tends to suit her. Ash and neutral shades keep the brow from turning orange as the color settles.
Chestnut and warm browns
Golden or peach cast, gold jewelry tends to suit her. Warmer browns sit naturally against the skin. An ash shade can look gray on her.
Medium browns
A mix of both casts. Medium and light browns are the usual starting point, then you adjust warmth with a small amount of a second shade.
going one shade lighter
When you hesitate between two shades, pick the lighter one. A brow that comes out slightly soft can be deepened at the next visit. A brow that comes out too dark is the complaint that brings a client back unhappy, and it takes time to fade.
Very dark scalp hair is the exception. A client with black hair and dark brows rarely wants a lighter brow, and Black or Dark Brown usually matches what she already has.
Hybrid color keeps developing after removal
With the Hybrid Liquid Brow Stain, the color can look lighter than expected right after removal and needs 3 to 5 hours to fully develop. Tell the client before she leaves, so she does not judge the shade in the chair.
blonde and red-haired clients
These two profiles carry the most risk, because a brow that is a few tones off shows immediately against light hair.
| Client Profile | Hybrid Stain Shades To Start From | Classic Tint Shades To Start From |
|---|---|---|
| Light blonde, wants subtle depth | Light Blonde | Natural Brown |
| Dirty blonde or graying brows | Ash Blonde | Natural Brown or Mid-Brown |
| Strawberry blonde | Light Chestnut Brown | Mid-Brown |
| Light hair with warm tones | Chestnut Brown | Mid-Brown |
| True red hair, wants depth | Reddish Brown | Mid-Brown |
These pairings are starting points for the consultation. Confirm with the client before you mix.
mixing shades for a custom tone
Both hybrid lines are built to be mixed. The Hybrid Liquid Brow Stain comes in 9 mixable colors and the Hybrid CREAM Brow Stain in 8 inter-mixable shades, so one tube rarely has to do the whole job on its own.
- Too warm on the brow: add a small amount of Black. BB&L describes Black as an additive that neutralizes warmer colors and adds depth.
- Too flat or gray: bring in a touch of a chestnut shade to put warmth back.
- Too dark for the client: step down to a lighter brown in the same family before you change undertone.
Mix with the matching developer only. The Hybrid CREAM Brow Stain is mixed at 3 drops of stain to 2 drops of Hybrid CREAM Developer. The Hybrid Liquid Brow Stain is used with the BB Hybrid Stain Developer. Classic Lash & Brow Tint is mixed with 3% / 10 volume cream developer.
Hybrid Liquid Brow Stain
Henna-free hybrid stain in 9 mixable colors, from Light Blonde to Black. It stains the brow hair and leaves a 3D effect on the skin, and it can be used right after a lamination treatment.
See The 9 Shadesshade families in the BB&L range
Three lines, three different jobs. Match the line to the result the client wants, then pick the shade inside it.
| Line | Shades | How Long It Lasts |
|---|---|---|
| Lash & Brow Tint (classic) | Natural Brown, Mid-Brown, Brown, Deep Black, Blue Black | 3 to 5 days on the skin, 3 to 6 weeks on the hair |
| Hybrid Liquid Brow Stain | Ash Blonde, Light Blonde, Light Chestnut Brown, Light Brown, Chestnut Brown, Reddish Brown, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Black | Up to 10 to 14 days |
| Hybrid CREAM Brow Stain | Ash Blonde, Blonde, Chestnut Brown, Light Brown, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Black, Blue Black | About 2 to 7 days on the skin, up to 6 weeks on the hair |
Deep Black and Blue Black in the classic line are lash shades first. BB&L recommends Blue Black for a more dramatic lash. For lash color choices, see the guide on choosing a lash tint color.
recording the formula on the client card
A color that works is only useful if you can repeat it in six weeks. Write the formula down at the end of every appointment.
- Line and shades: which product, which shades, and the proportion of each.
- Developer: which developer and the ratio used.
- Processing time: how long the color stayed on, and whether you shortened it.
- Result: how the brow looked at removal, and what the client said at the next visit.
- Patch test: the date and result of the last test for this line.
Patch test 24 to 48 hours ahead
Run a patch test with the exact product you plan to use, 24 to 48 hours before the appointment, and repeat it when you switch a client to a different line. Follow the product instructions and your state board's rules. Any burning, swelling or spreading redness means no service and a referral to a physician. Swelling around the eyes or difficulty breathing is an emergency: call 911.
keep reading
color questions from the chair
What brow tint color should I use on a blonde client?
Which shade works for red hair?
Can I mix two hybrid shades together?
The hybrid color looks too light after removal. Should I reapply?
Why did the brow turn warmer than the shade I picked?
Can I use a brow shade on lashes?
the terms in this guide
- Undertone
- The warm, cool or neutral cast under the skin's surface color. It decides whether a brow shade reads natural or off.
- Hybrid Stain
- A henna-free brow color that tints the hair and stains the skin at the same time, for a fuller-looking 3D effect.
- Classic Tint
- A cream tint for lashes and brows, mixed with 3% / 10 volume cream developer.
- Developer
- The activator mixed with the color. Each BB&L line has its own developer.
- Client Card
- The record of shades, ratios, timing, result and patch test for each client.
five classic shades for lashes and brows
The classic Lash & Brow Tint covers blonde to blue black in five colors, mixed with 3% / 10 volume cream developer.
Shop Lash & Brow Tint